It was the midweek special at Ft Point yesterday. Between the sideways sets of rain, the sky opened up for some great sunshine and breeze in the late afternoon. Just as everyone was packing up, I hit the water with the 10.7/Ml-10 in a building 10-15k gusty breeze.
A few laps between Anita and StFYC to get everything adjusted and then up to Ft Point.
As I worked my way upwind, the gusts were much strong coming off the Presidio: 20k+ but the swell was pumping through the slot and drawing me closer.
I lowered my boom another 1" for more control
1 tack under the mid span and I had my first run in from the red nun.
The ebb was like a river of current 4-5k rushing outbound beneath my board
The swell quickly jacked up and I found myself riding the biggest swell I had ever caught.
I looked over my shoulder to see a 15-20' face breaking next to me as I accelerate down the swells' face, rushing through the gate.
As my back foot pushed deeper into the chicken strap, the 100cm wide board drove deeper down the face. The 10.7 was fully lit propelling me forward as the ebb tide pulled me out.
One gybe was all I had before I had to bail as the wave continued into the leeward shadow of Ft. Point- a definite no go zone with race gear!
I managed a few more rides that day but heeded caution and didn't error on the side of greed- after all its still early in the season and my gear is still in 1 piece
0_O
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